As soon as the skies open up over Malta, an interesting phenomenon happens. The warm summer sun becomes a temporary memory. It is replaced every once in a while by the rhythmic patter of rain on its limestone landscape. While some might see this as a reason to stay indoors, for many Maltese it’s an opportunity. For locals, this is the starting point for Malta’s beloved autumn tradition. Several individuals use a rainy day to pull on their boots, grab a basket, and go snail hunting.
In fact, particularly during the arrival of the first winter rains, right after the dry summer Malta experiences the appearance of a very special, foragable delicacy: the humble brown garden snail, or as it’s referred to in Maltese, bebbux.
A Silver Lining in the Rain
Don’t worry, if you had to harvest and cook the snails you won’t be depleting a rare species. The Cantareus aspersus snail is very common in Malta. It is incredibly productive and is often considered a pest to gardeners and farmers. The damp landscape of a Maltese spring and winter creates the perfect conditions for them to thrive. You can find these snails literally everywhere. Whether in gardens, agricultural fields, climbing trees, or nestled in the island’s iconic rubble walls.
For those who are truly dedicated, the hunt can even extend into summer. During the scorching heat that takes over Malta, snails seek refuge in shady, humid spots, from rock crevices and under stones. This period of the year gets these snails to gather in large groups to wait out the dry season. However, the abundance of this snail is much more visible after a rainy day. Truly kicking off the autumn and winter seasons.
The Art of Preparing Bebbux
Knowing where to find and collect the snails is only the first step. The key to a delicious pot of bebbux lies in the preparation. After collection, the snails are traditionally placed in a net or basket for a few days to “fast.” While sounding…well…a bit inhumane…this serves as a crucial cleansing period. It allows the snails to purge any residual plant matter from their systems. On the other hand, there are some who even feed the snails dry pasta during this time! After this period, the snails are then thoroughly washed before hitting the pot.
The most common way to enjoy them is stewed in a rich, aromatic sauce. The snails are typically cooked first in salted water. Then they are added into a classic Maltese soffritto of tomatoes, carrots, garlic, olive oil, and a fresh herbs. The result is a flavourful, tender meat that one can say is best described as a taste of the Maltese countryside.
If you want yourself to get a taste of a truly local experience, you can pair your bebbux with a generous piece of crusty Maltese bread. This allows you to mop up every last drop of the delicious sauce. Snails are often enjoyed as an appetizer, accompanied by a cold beer or even a whiskey. Many times, they are served in local bars and Maltese restaurants. Sometimes, they are a starter plate prior to the famous fenkata (the Maltese rabbit stew).
The Surprising Nutritional Power of Snails
Beyond their delicious taste, snails are a nutritional powerhouse. Therefore, while it might not be for the masses, making bebbux is a genuinely healthy choice. This lean meat is packed with high-quality protein and is remarkably low in fat. It’s an excellent source of iron, which helps prevent anemia. Furthermore, it is rich in essential minerals like magnesium for heart and bone health. Snails also provide a significant boost of Vitamin B12 for your nervous system and energy levels, along with immune-supporting selenium and zinc. When enjoyed in the traditional Maltese tomato-based sauce rather than heavy butter, you get all these benefits while getting to enjoy a truly wholesome, local, and flavourful dish.
Where to Find Your Snail Fix
Don’t worry, you don’t have to be the one hunting down snails in the rain to enjoy this local delicacy. This culinary tradition is alive and well in many Maltese restaurants, local band clubs (każin tal-banda), and food festivals in general. You will find this more during the autumn and winter months. However, it’s not unheard of to be able to enjoy this plate also in summer. If you want to give making the dish a go, you can also purchase snails from marketplaces and grocery shops. In fact, to meet the high demand, snail farms have been opening in Malta in recent years.
So, the next time you find yourself in Malta on one of its few rainy days, don’t see it as a setback, but as an invitation. It’s an opportunity to embrace a centuries-old tradition and allow yourself to taste a piece of authentic Maltese culture. Whether you hunt for them yourself or order a plate in a cozy restaurant, a steaming bowl of bebbux is the island’s ultimate comfort food for a gloomy day.
