It seems inevitable for a group of tiny Mediterranean islands without a large population to be vulnerable to attack from passing marauders. Especially ones looking for a staging post on long sea journeys. All the better that it had fantastic natural harbours and a chance to stop and refresh for food and fuel.
It’s understandable then that part of Malta’s identity has always had a duality. The local inhabitants, living their lives as best they can with the few resources available. And with them, the protecting ruling force, ancient Phoenicians, Romans, Arabic Rule and various European leaders from France, Germany, Spain, Italy and Austria. This duality, while distinct, was also blurred. You just have to listen to the language to understand that diversity was long a part of being Maltese. Basically semitic, overlaid with Romance and written in Latin script.
Food Culture
You can also really see this in the Food Culture. In the best European tradition, the Maltese are absolute foodies. It’s fantastic that, even in a rapid, urbanisation of Malta, the passion for good food remains paramount. Many Maltese will still go to their favourite baker, greengrocer, fishmonger or butcher for fresh food. This, of course, is overlaid with imports from large European supermarkets trying to entice the, ever experimental, Maltese palette. Here comes the duality again, a love for local, excellent produce and an open attitude to what comes from beyond these shores.
Maltese Food Restaurants
Maltese restaurants have come under the Michelin Guide recently with seven restaurants holding Michelin stars on an island of five hundred thousand people. To put that in perspective, London has seventy four restaurants holding Michelin stars in a city of nine million people. Someone, somewhere on these islands is eating well!
In the 80s, to eat out was to eat either French or Italian dishes. Those were lovely, but Maltese food was considered too basic and simplistic. It was overlooked and remained in the kitchens of our homes. Well that’s changed, Maltese restaurants did start to emerge. The cuisine of our grandmothers, always stirring away at some pot or another, rolling out copious pastry or making cakes has taken its rightful place in the gastronomy scene.
Traditional Dishes
That passion for food is just part of cultural identity in Malta. It’s as complex as its various histories. Here’s a few Maltese favourites:
Figolli
Easter has just passed so let’s start with Figolli, traditional as the day is long. Part of the excitement of Easter Sunday, having foregone sweets for Lent, was to finally be able to munch your Figolla. So nice, it’s simple, marzipan sandwiched between two biscuits, cut into Easter related shapes and iced. It seems to have come out of Sicily, as a lot of food culture has. The name comes from the Italian, Figura, meaning shape.
Pudina
Next is Pudina, bread pudding. Stale bread is transformed into a chocolatey, candied peel containing, beauty. Pudina came out of the British Bread Pudding, which in turn was a way of using up leftover bread. British Bread Pudding I’d say is on the wane, considered a bit of a war recipe. You don’t see it so much now. Maltese Pudina though, seems to be still going strong. Maybe it’s because it’s so well made, lots of nuts, glace cherries, candied peel, spices and I’m sure, a taste of rum!
Imqaret
Turning to a bit of the Arabic influence, of course, Imqaret. That’s that date filled, deep fried delicacy that puts us in touch with Arabic roots. Let’s face it, the clue’s in the name. Maqrut, the singular, refers to the Arabic word for diamond, the shape of the pastry. The ingredients lean towards Arabic influence too. Dates, orange flower water, cinnamon, aniseed, it really gives you that sense of North African flavours. Makroudh found in Tunisia is very similar.
Pastizzi
Finally, what about that beloved snack, pastizzi? Could you get more Maltese? A simple snack using local cheese or peas in a very specialised pastry. Every Maltese person living outside Malta that I know misses these most of all. We’ve discussed various attempts to replicate the pasty but given up. In any case those tiny pots of ricotta from Tesco just don’t do it and the pastry is impossible.
Lots of historical sources place pastizzi as Arabic in origin, although a recent source suggests they were brought by a Sicilian cook who came to Malta in the time of the Knights. The suggestion is that they were a treat at that time and have evolved to become an, anytime, cheap, snack. This one may fall between two stools then possibly Arabic and possibly Sicilian, but what’s this, another contender?
During a recent talk, I made the quite startling discovery that actually the pea filling was due to the British! I know, shocker! Apparently, in order to make them palatable to the British, Maltese bakers used marrowfat peas mixed with curry powder to make the pastizzi into an interesting treat for the them.
A Hybrid of International Food
So, Maltese Food Culture, unsurprisingly, turns out to be based on a hybrid of different influences on the Island. The Maltese outward looking and embracing identity can absorb McDonalds, will chug a Chai Latte, gulp down a Chinese Buffet, scoff a bit of Sushi and all at the same time as keeping a deep seated passion for Maltese local food and traditions.
And I didn’t even mention Hobz biz-Zejt, did I …
